Please note all prices are listed in Australian dollars

Assembly Instructions

Use this guide below to assembly your 3D Printer Enclosure. 
E3 V2 3D printer enclosure DIY assembly
This guide is for the standard Enclosure.
SEE THE GALLERY

Step 1

If you bought a kit without the 3D parts. We recommend  you print them out of PETG and 25% infill.
Orientate the parts as shown when printing and supports are not required.
3D printed parts for a enclosure box
3D printer box digital file of parts

Step 2

Attach the doors to the panels with the hinges. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the lock nuts. It's important that you have an even gap around the edge. Keep them slightly loose until aligned. Tighten them firmly when positioned correctly.
The plastic hinges on the acrylic side doors.The front panel with the door hinges and handles in place.
Holes in the acrylic for the plastic hinges highlighted by a blue outline.
The holes for the bolts in the hinges are slotted so that the doors can be adjusted.
Close up view of the plastic hinges used on the acrylic enclosure.
Hinge details showing that the lock nuts need to be placed on the back.
The handles need to be bolted in as shown.
The handles can be bolted in now or at a later stage. The M5 14mm bolt’s head is on the inner side and the lock nut slots into the outer side.

Step 3

Attach all sides together and then the top panel. Again, use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts. Be careful not to have any panels fall over. Although the 4.5mm acrylic is strong it is still somewhat brittle under shock forces.
Two acrylic sides shown attached bolted together.
Bolt the metal plates onto the acrylic illustrated in a grey and blue drawing.
Attach the metal plates for the doors.
DIY enclosure corners for 3D printer enclosure
The lock nuts all fit into place on the 3D printed parts.
Insert the small plugs into the corner holes on the bottom. The small rubber feet are to help the enclosure grip your benchtop.
Plug detail for corner brackets.
Corner bracket details illustration.
Corner bracket with plugs for the feet installed.

Step 4

Attach all the acrylic for the rear panel. Make sure the levers are tight enough to hold the removable panel in place, but also loose enough to rotate. You will need to use the M5 20mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts. 
Please note M5 14mm bolts are used everywhere else.
The Ender 3 V2 is shown in the enclosure with the rear panel removed.

Step 5

Attach the 3mm thick acrylic side panel cover. This hole on the side is where you can add a vent to your enclosure to help manage fumes as an upgrade. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts.
The 3mm side panel cover for the exhaust hole is shown.

Step 6

Use your existing filament holder and attach it to the top panel of your enclosure. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts.
The Creality Ender 3 spool holder is re-used.
It's important that the holder is bolted firmly to the acyrlic. You should have a metal plate on the top and the bottom. This is to distribute the force on the acyrlic. 
Spool holder in bolted onto the top piece of acrylic.

Step 7

Before you put your Ender 3 V2 into the enclosure, it's important to add the filament guide. The PTFE tubing is simply held in with friction. This is to make it easier when changing the filament. Use the existing small bolts from your machine.
The printed filament guide shown on the Ender 3 V2.
It's very important that you use the PTFE tubing, otherwise the filament will hit the side of the acrylic. This will mess up your retraction settings. The PTFE tubing allows the filament to flow smoothly to the machine.
Attach the PC4-M10 fitting inside the corosponding 3D printed parts. The PC4-M10 fitting will hold the two printed parts together. Then insert the PTFE tubing.
PC4-M10 inserted with a PTFE tubing illustrated.
Make sure the PTFE tubing is cut to the correct length to suit your filament holder. The filament should be able to move smoothly on and off the roll.
A rear three quarter view of the 3D printer enclosure with all the panels open to show easy access.

Step 8

Use the corresponding 3D printed plugs to fill the spare holes in the acrylic. These holes are for future upgrades and to give flexibility for customization.
The inserted large and small 3D printed plugs are highlighted.
Insert the rubber grommet with the power cable already inserted.
The rubber grommet is to help prevent the cable being worn down. Always make sure your cable is in a good condition and not worn.
The inserted rubber grommet with the power cord.

Step 9

Now that you have gone through the DIY process of fully assembling your 3D printer enclosure, it's time to get printing!
E3 V2 3D printer enclosure DIY assembly
A rear three quarter view of the 3D printer enclosure with all the panels open to show easy access.
A top down view of the 3D printer enclosure with all the panels open to show easy access.
The feet plugs highlighted on the bottom of the 3D printer enclosure.
Enjoy!

BASE EXPANSION

Expand the capabilities of your 3D Printer Enclosure with the acrylic base.

steps

Print the feet, extra L brackets for the base, feet and vents.
It's highly recomended that you install a new PSU cover on your Ender 3 v2. This will allow extra ventialtion to the electronics.

We recomend this one from Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4866719
Base panel of the enclosure designed for the Ender 3 V2 to allowing extra cooling.
The highlighted vents as shown need to be inserted into the acyrlic.
The vents slot into the holes of the acrylic. This is to allow extra air flow to the printer's electronics.
Assembly instruction for the feet of the enclosure when using the extra base panel.
The feet bolts onto the bottom. Don't forget to put in the rubber plugs in the centre holes. You will need to use the M5 16mm bolts with M5 lock nuts.
Also insert the rubber plugs into the 4 feet. These feet should then clip into the acyrlic.
Rubber feet for 3D printer enclosure highlighted in this illustration.
The rubber plugs help keep the enclosure and 3D printer stable on your bench.
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