If you bought a kit without the 3D parts. We recommend you print them out of PETG and 25% infill.
Orientate the parts as shown when printing and supports are not required.
Step 2
Attach the doors to the panels with the hinges. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the lock nuts. It's important that you have an even gap around the edge. Keep them slightly loose until aligned. Tighten them firmly when positioned correctly.
The holes for the bolts in the hinges are slotted so that the doors can be adjusted.
The handles can be bolted in now or at a later stage. The M5 14mm bolt’s head is on the inner side and the lock nut slots into the outer side.
Step 3
Attach all sides together and then the top panel. Again, use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts. Be careful not to have any panels fall over. Although the 4.5mm acrylic is strong it is still somewhat brittle under shock forces.
Attach the metal plates for the doors.
The lock nuts all fit into place on the 3D printed parts.
Insert the small plugs into the corner holes on the bottom. The small rubber feet are to help the enclosure grip your benchtop.
Step 4
Attach all the acrylic for the rear panel. Make sure the levers are tight enough to hold the removable panel in place, but also loose enough to rotate. You will need to use the M5 20mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts. Please note M5 14mm bolts are used everywhere else.
Step 5
Attach the 3mm thick acrylic side panel cover. This hole on the side is where you can add a vent to your enclosure to help manage fumes as an upgrade. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts.
Step 6
Use your existing filament holder and attach it to the top panel of your enclosure. Use the M5 14mm bolts with the M5 lock nuts.
It's important that the holder is bolted firmly to the acyrlic. You should have a metal plate on the top and the bottom. This is to distribute the force on the acyrlic.
Step 7
Before you put your Ender 3 V2 into the enclosure, it's important to add the filament guide. The PTFE tubing is simply held in with friction. This is to make it easier when changing the filament. Use the existing small bolts from your machine.
It's very important that you use the PTFE tubing, otherwise the filament will hit the side of the acrylic. This will mess up your retraction settings. The PTFE tubing allows the filament to flow smoothly to the machine.
Attach the PC4-M10 fitting inside the corosponding 3D printed parts. The PC4-M10 fitting will hold the two printed parts together. Then insert the PTFE tubing.
Make sure the PTFE tubing is cut to the correct length to suit your filament holder. The filament should be able to move smoothly on and off the roll.
Step 8
Use the corresponding 3D printed plugs to fill the spare holes in the acrylic. These holes are for future upgrades and to give flexibility for customization.
Insert the rubber grommet with the power cable already inserted. The rubber grommet is to help prevent the cable being worn down. Always make sure your cable is in a good condition and not worn.
Step 9
Now that you have gone through the DIY process of fully assembling your 3D printer enclosure, it's time to get printing!
Enjoy!
BASE EXPANSION
Expand the capabilities of your 3D Printer Enclosure with the acrylic base.
steps
Print the feet, extra L brackets for the base, feet and vents.
It's highly recomended that you install a new PSU cover on your Ender 3 v2. This will allow extra ventialtion to the electronics.